CYPRUS

INTRODUCTION

Immerse yourself in a culture that draws on Europe , the Middle East , and 9000 years of constant invasion. Crusader castles rub shoulders with ancient vineyards, frescoed monasteries overlook citrus orchards, and sandy, sun-soaked feet tread Roman mosaic floors.

If you could sneak your way past the Green Line, Cyprus would be two countries for the price of one. Unfortunately, this really is a country divided – since 1974, visitors have had to choose between the Turkish experience of the north and the Greek experience of the south.

Full country name: Republic of Cyprus
Area: 9,251 sq km
Population: 785,000

People: Cypriot (Greek 78%, Turkish 18% – including 141,000 in North Cyprus)

Language: Greek, Turkish, English

Religion: Greek Orthodox 78%, Muslim 18%, Maronite , Armenian Apostolic and Christian 4%

CLIMATE

The Cypriot climate is typically Mediterranean, with very hot summers in July and August. Most of the year is dry, with unpredictable rains falling in December, January and February. Cyprus often suffers drought years, and water is such a scarce commodity that it is often rationed.

Required clothing: Lightweight cottons and linens during summer months; warmer mediumweights and rainwear during the winter.

When to Go

The shoulder seasons – April/May and September/October – are the most pleasant times, climatically, to visit Cyprus . Summer – June to August – can be very hot, and winter is sometimes wet but still pleasant.

Events

The Republic celebrates basically the same festivals as Greece . Easter , more important in the Greek Orthodox Church than Christmas, is the biggest celebration of the year – expect candle-lit processions, fireworks and feasting. The date changes every year, but it’s 50 days after the first Sunday in Lent , which is occasion for a carnival of its own. Cyprus Independence Day is celebrated on 1 October.

The North observes Muslim holidays. Foremost among these is Ramadan , a month where everyone fasts between sunup and sunset to conform to the fourth pillar of Islam. Ramadan ends with a huge feast, Eid al- Fitr , where everyone prays together, visits friends, gives presents and stuffs themselves. The Proclamation of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus is celebrated on 15 November.

Money & Costs

Currency: Cyprus pound

Meals

• Budget: US$5-7
• Mid-range: US$12-16
• High: US$16+

Lodging

• Budget: US$8-15
• Mid-range: US$15-30
• High: US$30+

Attractions

Lefkosia ( Nicosia )

The capital of Cyprus , in the middle of the island, is cut in two by the Green Line, which divides the country. Since the wall came down in Berlin , it’s the only divided capital in the world. A visit here might help you understand the problems Cyprus is facing, and should also give you a less touristy view of the country than you’ll get if you stick to the coastal towns. The old town, inside the 16th-century Venetian walls, is the most interesting part of Lefkosia , with the city centre and municipal gardens just outside the wall on the south-west side.

In Lefkosia , the Leventis Municipal Museum traces the development of the city from prehistoric times and gives a pretty good overview – it’s not a bad place to start your Lefkosian experience. Just east of the Leventis you’ll find a museum of culture, Dragoman Hadzigeorgakis . The exhibits are nothing special, but the building – a 15th-century mansion – is gorgeous. For some really spectacular museum pieces try the Byzantine Museum in the downright ugly Archbishop’s Palace, which has a superb collection of religious icons and mosaics. In the grounds of the museum, St John’s Cathedral has some recently restored 18th-century frescoes. Once the main entrance to the city, the Famagusta Gate on the eastern wall is beautifully preserved and is now used as a cultural centre.

The centre of North Nicosia is Ataturk Square , in the north-west. From the square, the main street runs north to the well-preserved Kyrenia Gate. Near the gate you’ll find the Turkish Museum , which lives in a 17th-century monastery and features a display of whirling-dervish memorabilia. The Selimiye Mosque, built in the 13th century, is one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in the country. Famous around the world, the Buyuk Hammam , in the south of town, is the city’s largest Turkish bath.

In the southern part of the city most of the places to stay, cheap or otherwise, are clustered around the southern wall, with a youth hostel a bit farther south. Places to eat are in the same sort of area, with a health food shop near the hostel. In the north you’ll find most accommodation around Selimiye Mosque, which is also the best area to get a bite to eat. If you’re staying in the south and want to visit the north, you can usually get an entry permit which will let you stay the day. It isn’t possible to day-trip in the other direction.

Famagusta ( Gazimagusa )

Once the richest city in the world, and often mistaken as the setting for Shakespeare’s Othello , Famagusta has now gone romantically to seed. The decaying old town is surrounded by a Venetian city wall, while the new town sprawls outside its boundaries. Just north of the Green Line in the country’s east, Famagusta sits at the base of the eerie, desolate Karpas Peninsula . Wealthy to the point of vulgarity in the 13th century, levelled by the Ottoman Empire in the 16th, the old city is now mostly notable for its few remaining churches. The Cathedral of St Nicholas, now the Mustafa Pasha Mosque, is a magnificent reminder of the city’s Lusignan heyday. Although succesive regimes have either altered or damaged it, it is still an elegant building. Note the minaret perched incongruously on one of its ruined towers.

Famagusta ‘s other drawcard is Othello’s Tower. According to legend, this is where Christoforo Moro (governor of Cyprus from 1506-08) killed his wife Desdemona. Alternatively, this is where Francesco de Sessa , a dark-skinned soldier, committed some unnamed offence which resulted in his banishment. Another legend holds that all the wealth of Famagusta ‘s Venetian merchants, abandoned during the Ottoman bombardment, is buried in the tower’s basement. Even if none of these stories is true, the castle is worth a look just for its great views of the harbour . Famagusta isn’t exactly crawling with eating and accommodation possibilities (most tourist digs were in the now-deserted and off-limits Greek part of town), so most travellers day-trip here from the north’s beach towns.

Kyrenia ( Girne )

Kyrenia , in the middle of the north coast, is, despite some nasty developments, the most pleasant coastal resort on the island. As is the norm in Cyprus , the old quarter is the most atmospheric place to be, but most of the hotels are in the newer resort strip. If Mediterranean atmosphere and outdoor cafes aren’t enough to keep you entertained, have a look at the Kyrenia Castle . Originally built in Roman times, the building you see today is mostly Venetian. The castle includes a Byzantine chapel and a museum of shipwrecks, featuring the world’s oldest shipwreck and its cargo.

Pafos

In a country of crassly commercial, poorly planned resort monstrosities, Pafos (on the western coast) seems to be hanging on to its identity while still pulling the tourist dollar. Kato Pafos , the lower town, has committed some nasty developmental sins, but Pafos itself, slightly inland, is much more pleasant. Among the souvenir shops you’ll find Saranta Kolones , a Lusignian fortress destroyed by an earthquake in the 13th century. It’s a very ruined ruin, mostly fallen columns and sewer tunnels. The Tombs of the Kings, 2km (1.2mi) north of Kato Pafos , are a warren of fascinating tombs carved into the soft rock of the sea-cliff.

Pafos ‘ most famous sight is its mosaics, originally laid down in the 3rd century as floors for Roman nobles. The first of these was uncovered in 1962, and continuing excavations have revealed a complex of buildings covering about 300 sq m (about 980 sq ft). Most of the mosaics, considered the best in this part of the world, are dedicated to Dionysus. Many people who come to Pafos come on a package, and the town isn’t really set up for the casual visitor, with very few decent places to stay. Have a look in the northern part of town and you might be able to dig something up.

Troodos Massif

The mountains of the Troodos region, in the country’s south, are unforgettable. And unlike the rest of the Republic, this is one place where you might not be outnumbered by package tourists. Popular with skiers, hikers and the heat-intolerant, Troodos is littered with 15th-century frescoed monasteries, wine-making villages and pleasant walking trails. Kykkos Monastery, in the western Troodos , is the best known but most touristy monastery. Built in the 12th century, it’s been completely renovated and contains a museum of religious icons. Asinou is probably the most beautiful of the area’s monasteries, but it’s a bit of a trek to get to it – head south from Nikitari.

Platres is the main resort in the Troodos . In the south of the region, it was a colonial hill station and is still very popular with expats . It’s nothing special, but there’s lots of places to stay. Pedoulas , in the western Troodos , is another regional centre and home to the Church of Arhangelos Mihail . It’s also one of the most convenient bases for visiting Kykkos . The Solea district, in the north, is scattered with picturesque small villages and monasteries, and is ideal if you’re keen for a bit of cycling.

Activities

Unsurprisingly in a country of resorts, Cyprus has plenty of places where you can indulge in water sports . If it’s windsurfing or sailing you want, head to the peninsulas and capes, where the wind is strongest. There’s also at least one diving site in each of the big resorts. Mountain biking and hiking are possible all over the island, with specially marked trails in the southern hills, on the Akamas Peninsula and in the Troodos . Although hardly renowned for its skiing , Cyprus does have a resort on the northeastern face of Mount Olympus , but it’s not exactly world standard. And what would a package tourist destination be without golf – several courses are complete or under construction; the most popular are in the Pafos district.

Food & Drink

Major resorts have bars and restaurants of every category. At larger hotels, the indigenous cuisine tends to have an ‘international flavour’ although authentic local dishes may also be available. All over the island there are restaurants offering genuine Cypriot food. Charcoal-grilled meat is very popular, as is fresh seafood. Dishes include kebabs (pieces of lamb or other meat skewered and roasted over a charcoal fire), dolmades (vine leaves stuffed with minced meat and rice) and tava (a tasty stew of meat, herbs and onions). One of the best ways of enjoying Cypriot food is by ordering mezze (snacks), a large selection of a number of different local dishes. Fresh fruit is plentiful and cheap, and very sweet desserts such as baklava are widely available. Waiter service is normal and in bars counter service is common. There are no licensing hours. Cyprus produces excellent wines, spirits and beer which can only be bought in the south. Coffee is Greek-style (short, strong and unfiltered), though cappuccino is available in most restaurants and bars. Traditional English tea can be bought everywhere. The highlight of the wine year is the annual wine festival, usually held in September, when free wine flows and local food is on offer. The festival is just one of many celebrated throughout the year in Limassol.

Shopping

Cypriot purchases include handmade lace, woven curtains and tablecloths, silks, basket work, pottery, silverware and leather goods. Jewellery is an art which has been practised on the island since the Mycenean period; craftsmen working in contemporary and traditional styles produce some very fine pieces. Silver spoons and forks are a traditional symbol of Cypriot hospitality. Lefkara lace is famous throughout the world as one of the products most closely associated with Cypriot workmanship; the name originates from the village Lefkara , situated on a hill on the Nicosia- Limassol road. Other products include the simple baskets which have been made on the island for years, leather goods and pottery. The local wines and brandy also make good purchases. Imported goods sell at competitive prices, including cameras, perfume, porcelain, crystal and of course the finest English fabrics. Shirts made to measure or ready to wear can be found at very low prices.

Shopping hours: Shops are closed Wednesday and Saturday after 1400 as well as all day Sunday. Otherwise opening hours are 0800-1300 and 1600-1930 (summer, or until 1900 spring and autumn); 0800-1300 and 1430-1800 (winter). On Fridays, shops are generally open until 2000/2030