AUSTRIA

INTRODUCTION

Austria, at the geographical heart of Europe, is renowned for its ski resorts set on spectacular mountains, overlooking crystal-clear lakes and voluptuously green valleys. Throughout the country are glorious architectural reminders of the once-powerful Hapsburgs, who dominated central Europe for seven centuries.

Nowhere is the legacy more evident than in the capital, Vienna , with its ornate Opera House and the former imperial residence of the Hofburg . Austria’s other cities are similarly infused with a historical magic, notably Salzburg, the birthplace of Mozart, with stunning Baroque churches set before a backdrop of snow-covered peaks, and Innsbruck, in the centre of the Austrian Alps.

But Austria is also a hothouse of striking contemporary architecture, reflecting a modern country at the forefront of engineering, invention and design, and whose modern, efficient social system ensures a high quality of living for most of its residents.

Austria has a justifiable reputation for music, literature and the arts, but also boasts a gourmet culture. The legendary Gemutlichkeit √ a relaxed enjoyment of life √ is in evidence in the cafes, where the art of coffee-drinking has been raised to a high art, and the many Heurigen , where the latest vintages are accompanied by vast quantities of food. Nightlife is versatile, offering laid-back taverns, beer gardens and excellent apres-ski, as well as trendy clubs and dance venues packed to the small hours.

Capital City : Vienna (pop: 1.64 million)

People: 97% Germanic origin, 2% Slovene & Croat and 1% Turkish

Language: German, Turkish, Slovenian, Croatian, English

Religion: 88% Roman Catholic, 6% Protestant

Money

Single European currency (Euro): The Euro is now the official currency of 12 EU member states (including Austria ). The first Euro coins and notes were introduced in January 2002; the Austrian Schilling was in circulation until 28 February 2002 , when it was completely replaced by the Euro. Euro (┬) = 100 cents. Notes are in denominations of ┬500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5. Coins are in denominations of ┬2, 1 and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1 cents

CLIMATE

Austria enjoys a moderate continental climate: summers are warm and pleasant with cool nights, and winters are sunny, with snow levels high enough for widespread winter sports.

May-November is an excellent time to tour Austria . October is particularly nice – there are fewer tourists and the lines are shorter for museums, etc. A sweater is generally needed for evenings, even in summer. The temperature is considerably colder as you go higher in elevation. Winters are cold and often drizzly in Vienna , but in the mountains it’s the best time for skiing (you can also ski on a glacier during the summer

Required clothing: European clothes according to season. Alpine wear for mountain resorts.

When to Go

Summer sightseeing and winter sports make Austria a year-round destination. In the summer high season (July to August) crowds are bigger and prices higher. Winter sports are in full swing from mid-December to late March. Spring in the Alps is in June, when the Alpine flowers start coating the mountains with colour.

Food

Traditional Austrian dishes are Wiener Schnitzel , boiled beef ( Tafelspitz ), calf’s liver with herbs in butter ( Gerostete Leber ), Goulash , Kaiserschmarrn , Palatschinken and Salzburger Nockerln , as well as various types of smoked and cured pork. Viennese cuisine is strongly influenced by southeast European cuisine, notably that of Hungary , Serbia , Romania and Dalmatia . Many of the simpler meals are often made with rice, potatoes and dumplings ( Knodel ) with sauces. The main meal of the day is lunch. Mehlspeisen is the national term for cakes and puddings, all of which are wonderfully appetising. There are more than 57 varieties of Torte , which is often consumed with coffee at around 1500. Open all day, the Austrian coffee shop ( Kaffeehaus ) is little short of a national institution and often provides the social focus of a town or neighbourhood.

Spirits such as whisky and gin, together with imported beers, tend to be on the expensive side, but local wines (often served in open carafes) are excellent and cheap. Most of the wines are white ( Riesling, Veltliner ) but there are also some good red wines from Baden and Burgenland , as well as imported wines from other European countries. Generally the strict registration laws mean that the quality of the wine will be fully reflected in its price. Obstler is a drink found in most German-speaking countries, and is made by distilling various fruits. It is usually very strong, and widely drunk as it is cheap and well flavoured. Most bars or coffee houses have waiter service and bills are settled with the arrival of drinks. All restaurants have waiter service.

Note: There are no national licensing laws in Austria , but each region has local police closing hours. Most coffee houses and bars serve wine as well as soft drinks and beers.

Shopping

High-quality goods such as handbags, glassware, chinaware and winter sports equipment represent the cream of specialist items found in Austria . A 20 to 32 per cent value-added-tax (called MwSt ) is included in the list price of items sold.

Shopping hours: Shops and stores are generally open from Mon-Fri 0800-1800 (with a 1- or 2-hour lunch break in the smaller towns). Some shops are open until 1930 on Thursday and on Saturday opening hours are until 1700

Nightlife

Viennese nightlife offers something for every taste: opera, theatre and cabaret as well as numerous bars and nightclubs. There are cinemas of all types, some of them of architectural interest, showing films in different languages. A good way to spend a summer evening is in one of the beer gardens found all over Austria . The wine-growing area around Vienna features wine gardens ( Heurigen ) where visitors can sample local wines in an open-air setting

Events

The cycle of music festivals is unceasing. In January, New Year concerts consist of lavish balls in Vienna . February brings Fasching (Carnival) which celebrates the return of spring with masked processions and dances. Corpus Christi (the second Thursday after Whitsun) is heralded with more carnivals, some held on lakes in the Salzkammergut . The Vienna International Festival (from mid-May to mid-June) has a wide-ranging programme of arts and is considered the highlight of the year. Midsummer night’s celebrations on 21 June light up the sky with magnificent bonfires. The Salzburg International Festival takes place in late-July and August and includes plenty of music by the city’s favourite son, Mozart. National Day on 26 October involves lots of patriotic flag-waving. St Nicholas Day , on 5 December, marks the beginning of the Christmas season with parades.

Attractions

Vienna

Grandiose Vienna was the showpiece of the all-conquering Habsburg dynasty. Monumental edifices line the city centre, world-class museums burst with treasures, white stallions strut their way down mirrored halls and renowned orchestras and angelic choirboys perform in lavish concert halls.

Most of Vienna ‘s main sights are crammed into the Innere Stadt (inner city). The district is adorned with the outstanding Gothic heights of Stephansdom , the massive Hofburg ( Imperial Palace ), the cultured history of the Jewish quarter ( Judenplatz ) and a scattering of historic streets and squares.

Eisriesenwelt Caves

Set at an elevation of 1640m, the Eisriesenwelt Caves are the largest accessible ice caves in the world. They comprise more than 40km of explored passageways and 30,000 cubic m of ice. Entry to the caves is regulated and a 75-minute tour takes in several immense caverns containing elaborate ice formations and frozen waterfalls.

Grossglockner Road

For a fantastic 50km (30mi) mountain tour, load up the car and head for the Grossglockner Road , Austria ‘s No1 panorama drama. Most of the juicy bits are in the Hohe Tauern National Park where there are dramatic views of numerous unpronounceable peaks, including the mighty Grossglockner.

Salzburg

Salzburg’s old town, on the south bank of the river, is a Baroque masterpiece of churches, plazas, courtyards and fountains, oozing so much charm that it’s enough to make you forgive the Mozart obsession. Museums, houses, squares, chocolate bars, liqueurs – all are pressed into Wolfgang hommage .

Salzburg is picturesquely sheltered by surrounding mountains and straddles the Salzach River near the border with Germany . From its quaint old town nestled below the medieval Hohensalzburg Fortress to its baroque palace and manicured gardens, the city presents one perfect view after another.

St Anton

The Arlberg region comprises several linked resorts and offers some of the best skiing in Austria . St Anton is the largest and least elitist of these resorts, but even here budget travellers can kiss their savings goodbye amid the easy-going atmosphere and vigorous nightlife

Activities

All Austrians seem able to ski effortlessly which is a real pain if you’re a beginner trying to look cool on the slopes. The very fit can try cross-country. The Alps will also tempt mountaineers, and are the perfect setting for days spent skimming through the air on a paraglider , hang-glider or balloon. Those with a taste for water will love Austria ‘s lakes, which are a picturesque place to try waterskiing, sailing and windsurfing. For a more leisurely water experience, try a river cruise on the Danube

Travel Tips

Do say hello ( Gruss Gott or Guten Gag) when entering a shop or restaurant and goodbye ( auf Wiedersehen ) when leaving – social pleasantries are the norm in Austria .

Do dress conservatively, even in social situations. Dark suits and nice dresses are appropriate for concerts and the theater .

Don’t call Austrians Germans – they’re not German and are proud of their distinctive heritage