EGYPT

INTRODUCTION

Travelers have been marveling at Egypt ‘s wondrous antiquities for thousands of years – even the ancient Greeks and Romans were awed by them. But today, a visit to Egypt is more than an immersion in past glories. The clamorous present is everpresent : Mud-brick villages sprout TV antennae, stone and glass high-rises tower over ancient monuments and pop music from boom boxes counterpoints the call to prayers.

While modern life coexists in close proximity with the legacies of the past, it has also opened up possibilities for exploring a wider area of Egypt . In addition to the great monuments of the Nile Valley , an Egyptian itinerary is also likely to include diving along the Red Sea coast or a desert trek to remote oases or the Sinai. The hub of transportation – and most likely your first and last stop in the country – remains Cairo , a city that never fails to make a strong impression.

Language: Arabic
Religion: 94% Islam, 6% Christian
Time: GMT/UTC +2
Dialling Code: 20
Electricity: 220V ,50Hz
Weights & measures: Metric

Money & Costs

Currency: Egyptian Pound

Meals

Budget: US$2-4
Mid-range: US$6-8
High: US$8+

Lodging

Budget: US$3-8
Mid-range: US$8-40
High: US$40+

CLIMATE

There are basically two seasons in Egypt : a relatively cool season that lasts November-March (by far the better touring season) and a hot season April-October. The Red Sea coast has fewer extremes and is nice year round. October is a good month if you want to visit the rest of the country off season, when prices and tourist crowds are low. During the other off-season months it is simply too hot to be enjoyable, though the average humidity stays in the 7%-20% range. In the spring (especially late March to early April), sand and dust storms called khamsin blow in and can reduce visibility (sometimes even in Cairo) to less than 100 ft/30 m.

ACTIVITIES

There are plenty of good opportunities for swimming on the many fine beaches along Egypt ‘s Mediterranean and Red Sea coasts. Diving and snorkelling are by far the most popular organised activities in Egypt , and the Red Sea is said to have some of the best scuba diving in the world. The waters off Egypt teem with underwater life and the corals, crustaceans and fish come in all sorts of vivid colours and shapes. Camel and jeep safaris are also popular, either in the Western Desert with its fantastic sand landscapes or in the rugged, rocky surrounds of Sinai. The government is also promoting Egypt as a golfing destination.

Attractions

Cairo

Cairo isn’t a gentle city. Home to more than 16 million Egyptians, Arabs, Africans and sundry others, the ‘Mother of the World’ is an all-out assault on the senses. Chaotic, noisy, polluted, totally unpredictable and seething with people, the sheer intensity of the city will either seduce or appal .

Cairo has plenty of fine 19th-century buildings, modern art and sculpture, precious green spaces and ancient districts (Islamic Cairo is a Unesco World Heritage Site). Then there’s the Pharaonic sites that stretch south of the city, not to mention Those Pyramids and That River.

Alexandria

The mighty Macedonian Alexander the Great came to Egypt in 331 BC after conquering Greece and selected a small fishing village on the Mediterranean coast to establish his new capital, Alexandria . The city is oriented around Midan Ramla and Midan Saad Zaghoul , the large square that runs down to the waterfront. Alexandria once had a great library that contained more than 500,000 volumes, and at its peak the city was a great repository of science, philosophy and intellectual thought and learning.

The Graeco -Roman Museum contains relics that date back to the 3rd century BC. There’s a magnificent black granite sculpture of Apis , the sacred bull worshipped by Egyptians, as well as an assortment of mummies, sarcophagi, pottery, jewellery and ancient tapestries. Another highlight is one of the few historical depictions of the Pharos of Alexandria, one of the Seven Wonders of the World . The only Roman Amphitheatre in Egypt was rediscovered in 1964. Its 13 white marble terraces are in excellent condition and excavation work is still under way, although the dig has shifted a little to the north of the theatre.

Pompey’s Pillar is a massive 25m (82ft) pink granite monument measuring 9m (30ft) around its girth. The pillar should rightfully called Diocletian’s Pillar, as it was built for the emperor in AD 297, and was the only monument left standing following the violent arrival of the Crusaders around 1000 years later. The Catacombs of Kom ash- Shuqqafa are the largest known Roman burial site in Egypt, and consist of three tiers of burial tombs, chambers and hallways. The catacombs were begun in the 2nd century AD and were later expanded to hold more than 300 corpses. There’s a banquet hall where the grieving would pay their respects with a funeral feast. Experts are hoping to discover Cleopatra’s Palace under the sea bed off Alexandria ; columns were found in 1998, and recently archaeologists raised a beautiful statue of Isis from the depths. Cleopatra’s Library was destroyed by the Crusaders.

Aswan

Aswan , Egypt ‘s southernmost city, has long been the country’s gateway to Africa . The prosperous market city straddles the crossroads of the ancient caravan routes, at the ‘other’ end of the Nile not far above the Tropic of Cancer. In ancient times it was a garrison town known as Swenet (meaning ‘Trade’), and it was also important to the early Coptic Christians. The main town and temple area of Swenet were located on Elephantine Island in the middle of Nile (the island was known then as Yebu , and later renamed by the Greeks). The temples and ruins here are not nearly as well preserved and impressive as those elsewhere in the country, but there are other good reasons to visit. If you’re not ‘ tombed out’, a visit to the Tombs of the Nobles is worthwhile, and a highlight is the Nubian Museum , showcasing history, art and Nubian culture from the prehistoric to the present. The Nile is glorious here as it makes its way down from massive High Dam and Lake Nasser – watching the feluccas glide by as the sun sets over the Nile is an experience you’re unlikely to forget.

Luxor

Built on the site of the ancient city of Thebes , Luxor is one of Egypt ‘s prime tourist destinations. People have been visiting the magnificent monuments of Luxor , Karnak , Hatshepsut and Ramses III for thousands of years. Feluccas and old barges shuffle along the Nile between the luxury hotel ships of the Hilton and Sheraton cruising to and from Cairo and Aswan .

Luxor Temple was built by Pharaoh Amenhotep III (1390-1352 BC) on the site of an older temple built by Hatshepsut and added to by Tutankhamun , Ramses II, Nectanebo , Alexander the Great and various Romans. Excavation work has been under way since 1885. The Temples of Karnak are a spectacular series of monuments that were the main place of worship in Theban times. They can be divided into the Amun Temple Enclosure, which is the largest; the Mut Temple Enclosure on the south side; and the Montu Temple Enclosure. The lonely statues of the Colossi of Memnon are the first things most people see when they arrive on the West bank, though the Valley of the Kings , including the spectactular tombs of Nefertari and Tutankhamun , are the big attraction. Luxor is accessible from Cairo by buses or trains which run every day.

Port Said

Situated on the northern entrance to the Suez Canal on the Mediterranean coast, Port Said is a very young city by Egyptian standards. It was founded in 1859 by ruler Said Pasha when excavations began for the Suez Canal . Port Said was bombed in 1956 during the Suez Crisis, and again in the 1967 and 1973 wars with Israel ; the damage can still be seen here and there, although the city was extensively rebuilt. The original settlement was established on land reclaimed from Lake Manzela , and the city sits on an isthmus connected by causeways to the mainland. Ferries cross Lake Manzela to Al- Matariyya and across the canal to Port Fouad . Unlike many of Egypt ‘s other Mediterranean towns, Port Said does not get overrun with local tourists seeking sun and sea. It’s an unusual destination by Egyptian standards, with 1900s colonial architecture and several good museums and gardens.

The spectacle of the huge ships and tankers lining up to pass through the northern entrance of the canal is something to be seen. The central district around the canal is full of five-storey buildings with timber balconies and high verandahs in grand belle epoque style. South are the striking green domes of Suez Canal House, built in time for the inauguration of the canal in 1869, but, unfortunately, off limits to visitors. Trains, buses and service taxis run between Cairo and Port Said

Dining

The nation’s history includes occupations by the French, British and Turks, and its cuisine was influenced by all of them, as well as by regional neighbors such as Lebanon and Greece (though Egyptians tend to use more cumin and coriander). Local meat is usually grilled beef, poultry or mutton. The coarse foul bean and spicy vegetables are often served on the side. Pita bread (also known as Arab or Syrian bread) is common, but differs in taste from that in nearby countries. Shwarma , a sandwich similar to a gyro, is good fast food, but make sure the meat hasn’t been sitting out for too long. Also try fateer , an oven-baked pancake with either sweet or savory combinations; mulokhaya , a soup with chard with lots of garlic; and koshari , a blend of rice, lentils, pasta and chickpeas, accompanied by a spicy tomato sauce and fried onions.

Egyptian wines have improved dramatically since the privatization of the state vineyards in 1998. Local beers have been available for 100 years, and they too have improved in both quality and variety in recent years: Stella is the brand to look for

Shopping

Among the interesting souvenirs that Egypt offers are mother-of-pearl inlaid wood, jewelry, brassware and leather goods (though some of the cheaper items may not be adequately cured). Other items include carpets, shisha water pipes, alabaster and soapstone carvings, paintings on papyrus, rag rugs, Egyptian clothing, silver and copper ware, perfumes and reproductions of antiquities. For the reproductions, the Egyptian Antiquities Museum is a good source. Elsewhere, if an item is presented to you as an antique, it’s probably a fake (and if it is genuine, it can’t be legally exported). In fact, be very careful when buying something that may appear to authorities to be of historical importance – the police have detained tourists for days while determining that well-made reproductions were not authentic. Look for campy postcards and stationery that looks as if it were first printed 40 years ago. And do go into one of the herb shops. They carry everything from dried lizards to licorice powder.

The Khan el- Khalili Bazaar in Cairo is a good spot to shop for many of these items, and it’s fun just to walk through even if you’re not very interested in shopping. The streets leading up to it are wild and woolly – lots of interesting shops can be found. Bargaining is acceptable almost everywhere: Even fine shops will consider bids on big-ticket items. The bargaining process may seem to be a waste of time to people used to just taking items to a cash register, but try to enjoy the process – the key is to try to keep the price low without being arrogant or insulting. Learn to fake astonishment at a suggested price or walk slowly out of a shop if necessary. But don’t bargain if you’re not truly interested in buying. (The profered tea or soft drinks do not obligate you to buy anything.) Above all, keep smiling.

Shopping Hours: Generally Saturday-Thursday 9 am – 9 pm. Hours vary in summer and during the Islamic holy month of Ramadan.

Banking Hours: Generally Sunday-Thursday 8:30 am-2 pm.

Travel Tips

Do be prepared for unwanted attention if you’re a woman traveling alone – it’s best to travel with a companion outside the main tourist areas. You’ll undoubtedly be whistled at or talked to in the street. The best response is no response – any other response may be misinterpreted as encouragement. If approached, always say that you are married. If you need help, ask a woman. If you find yourself being unduly hassled, simply raise your voice and yell; you’ll instantly be surrounded by a curious crowd, all trying to help. You may then have the opportunity to slip away.

Do declare all your valuables when entering the country or they may be confiscated upon your departure. This applies especially to photographic and video equipment, which must have their serial numbers recorded by customs in your passport.

Do avoid public displays of affection between the sexes (although it’s perfectly acceptable for two men or two women to hold hands).

Do be respectful if you’re visiting a mosque or other religious site. Take off your shoes, and cover your head if you’re a woman, before going into a mosque. Don’t enter during prayers.

Don’t eat, drink or smoke in public during the day during the holy month of Ramadan.

Do ask people if they mind having photos taken before snapping away. They may ask for money, as is their right. And while we’re on the subject, don’t photograph bridges, canals (including the Suez Canal ) or anything even remotely related to the military or government.

Do be careful which invitations you accept. Friendly Egyptians often invite visitors to their homes for tea, supper or just to meet the family, but acceptance of such an invitation may obligate you to spend more time with them than you wish. It’s considered bad manners to refuse an invitation, so if you don’t want to go, you must be prepared with a good excuse. If you do go to someone’s home, take along a gift such as cake or chocolates.

Don’t blow your nose in a restaurant: You will receive disparaging glances for doing so.

Do know the frequently used expression insha’allah , which means God willing. It is used in connection with any event (or desired outcome) in the future. A request for a task to be performed will often be met with this response, rather than a definite yes or no.