INDONESIA

INTRODUCTION

The floating emerald islands of the Indonesian archipelago have for centuries lured everyone from missionaries to pirates, mining companies and backpackers to their sandalwood and spice breezes, their Bali Hai lifestyle and their magnificent beaches, mountains and volcanoes.

However, the myth of a paradise is often marred by deep racial divides, religious warring, high-handed autocracy, government corruption, economic mismanagment and natural disasters. The latest round of sectarian violence has made Indonesia a problematic destination for most Western travellers.

Language: Indonesian, English, Javanese, Sundanese
Religion: 88% Muslim, 8% Christian, 2% Hindu
Currency: Rupiah (Rp) = 100 sen. Notes are in denominations of Rp100,000, 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5000, 1000, 500 and 100. Coins are in denominations of Rp1000, 500, 100, 50 and 25.

WEATHER

Draped over the equator, Indonesia tends to have a fairly uniform climate – hot. It’s hot and wet during the wet season (October to April) and hot and dry during the dry season (May to September). Temperatures climb to about 31?C(88?F) in coastal regions, dropping further inland. The best time to visit Indonesia is from April to October.

When to Go

Though travel in the wet season is possible in most parts of Indonesia , it can be a deterrent to some activities and travel on mud-clogged roads in less developed areas is difficult. In general, the best time to visit is in the dry season between May and October.

The Christmas holiday period beings a wave of migratory Australians and there’s an even bigger tourist wave during the European summer holidays. The main Indonesian holiday period is the end of Ramadan, when some resorts are packed to overflowing and prices skyrocket.

ATTRACTIONS

Bali

Bali is so picturesque that you could be fooled into thinking it was a painted backdrop: rice paddies trip down hillsides like giant steps, volcanoes soar through the clouds, the forests are lush and tropical, and the beaches are lapped by the warm waters of the Indian Ocean.

But the paradise gloss has been manufactured and polished by the international tourist industry rather than by the Balinese themselves – who don’t even have a word for paradise in their language – and it pays scant regard to the political and economic reality of life on Bali.

Java

The most developed island in the Indonesian archipelago, Java exhibits all the characteristics of an Asian society experiencing rapid transition: great wealth and equal squalor; beautiful open country and filthy cities; tranquil rural scenes and befouling snarls of traffic.

The Hindu-Buddhist empires reached their zenith on Java, producing architectural wonders such as Borobudur and Prambanan. Islam, following on after this, absorbed rather than erased local cultures, leaving Java with a mish-mash of historic influences and religions.

Lombok

Less developed than Bali, Lombok also has better beaches, a bigger volcano and a greater variety of landscapes. Tourism is less intrusive than it is on Bali, but the flip-side is that the people of Lombok are less blase about tourists: in some places you might find the residents quite resentful of the new wave of tourism.

The mainly-Muslim island of Lombok is an island of uncrowded beaches and tranquil countryside, dominated by the spectacular volcano of Gunung Rinjani. Although it’s got a Balinesque feel to it, it has not yet fallen victim to the sloganised T-shirt, beer and bikini set.

Sumatra

Sumatra is as tropical as it gets. With its Amazon-like rivers moving sluggishly through canopies of natural rainforests, muddy mangrove estuaries, steamy interiors, brilliantly gaudy flora and weird and wonderful fauna, Sumatra is a place and a half for a boat trip.

Despite its wealth of natural resources, Sumatra is struggling with a failing economy. The northern province of Aceh is at the epicentre of religious violence between Christians and Muslims and the area has been hit by devastating earthquakes.

ACTIVITIES

There is good diving and snorkelling off Bali (Nusa Dua, Sanur, Padangbai), between Komodo and Labuhanbajo in Flores, around the Banda Islands and off Pulau Biak off the north coast of Papua. The sea gardens of Sulawesi, particularly around Manado, are legendary. Renowned surf spots include Ulu Watu in Bali, Grajagan in Java and Nias off Sumatra, but there is surf along the southern coast of virtually all the islands in Nusa Tenggara. Windsurfing enthusiasts are well catered for in the southern resorts of Bali. Rafting is a new activity now offered on Bali’s Ayung River.

Sumatra has good jungle treks , particularly in Gunung Leuser National Park. Berastagi and Bukit Lawang are also popular trekking centres in Sumatra. More adventurous jungle trekking opportunities are available in Kalimantan and Papua. For those who want to reach for the skies, Gunung Bromo in Java and Agung in Bali are day climbs; Gunung Rinjani, the volcano that dominates Lombok, is a strenuous but worthwhile three-day jaunt

FOOD

Many Indonesian dishes are Chinese-influenced, but some, such as Padang food from Sumatra, are distinctly home-grown. Wherever you travel in Indonesia you’ll see vendors selling snacks such as potatoes, sweet nuts, biscuits or fruit. Rice is the basis of each meal, eaten as a soup or with an assortment of hot and spicy side dishes, salad and pickles. Nasi goreng (fried rice) is the most common dish, while sate (skewered meats with a spicy peanut sauce), gado-gado (bean sprouts and vegies in peanut sauce) and seafood are also popular. The variety of tropical fruits grown would make a greengrocer swoon. They include custard apples, durians, guavas, jackfruits, mangoes, papayas, starfruits and rambutans.

SHOPPING

Favourite buys are batik cloth, woodcarvings and sculpture, silverwork, woven baskets and hats, bamboo articles, krises (small daggers), paintings and woven cloth. At small shops, bartering might be necessary.

Shopping hours: Mon-Sun 1000-2100. Most local markets open either very early in the morning or at dusk.

TRAVEL TIPS

Don’t travel to Muslim areas during the month of Lebaran, the major Muslim holiday, when most people fast during the day and restaurants are closed. (Lebaran is calculated by the Muslim lunar calendar and so falls somewhere between January and April.) Lebaran culminates in the final daylong holiday of Eid al-Fitr, when Javanese are obliged to return home to their villages to pay respect to their parents – which, for travelers, means you’ll have a slim chance of booking a bus or train, and the roads are packed. In Bali, avoid arriving when the holiday of Nyepi (“quiet”) is due. On Nyepi, Balinese stay at home the entire day in silence.

Do inquire first before entering a mosque or church – usually, there is a caretaker at the building. If you are not a member of that faith, you may be refused entry. If you’re a woman planning to visit a mosque, do buy a scarf to cover your head.

Do be sure to buy accident insurance when you rent a motorcycle in Bali – and make sure it includes coverage to airlift you to Singapore if you are in an accident, as medical care on the island is poor.

Don’t be offended if Indonesians inquire about your religion, your marital status or number of children. Those are common questions Indonesians ask each other, too.

Do be aware that possession of pornographic literature is a crime, and nudity is not appreciated by the locals.

Do purchase a sarong and waist sash if you are planning to visit Balinese temples. Otherwise you will have to rent them at the door (and they aren’t as stylish).

Don’t pay a brand-name price – particularly for watches, perfume or sunglasses – without looking closely to see you if you really are getting a brand-name product. What we first thought were “Ray Bans” turned out to be “Raymond Bensons.”

Do expect to give small tips in exchange for taking someone’s picture.

Do save enough rupiah to pay the airport departure tax.

Do be aware that AIDS is a serious problem in the Kuta beach area.

Do visit a Balinese cockfight if you have the chance. While the actual fighting is not to our taste, the accompanying festival atmosphere is fascinating: Crowds of men shout bets and press to get a view of the ring, while off to the sides, food stalls serve satay , roast pig and cool drinks under the shade of coffee trees. If you are taken to a cockfight by a driver, be sure to establish about how long you would like to stay – your driver might find the event a little more fascinating than you do.

Don’t ever drink the water from the tap, regardless of what the hotel tells you .

Don’t sign traveler’s checks unless the cashier watches you sign. Indonesian banks may refuse to cash your check if they weren’t watching every stroke of the pen.

Police have started clamping down on motorists who violate traffic laws: Failure to wear a seat belt can bring a fine of up to US$1,500, even though many cars in Indonesia aren’t equipped with seat belts. When renting a car, insist on getting one with a seat belt.

Don’t expect to be served alcohol by your hosts if it is an Islamic holiday.

Don’t expect wrapped gifts to be opened in front of you – it’s considered impolite.